![]() ![]() More LEDs need more power and increase control complexity considerably. ![]() It’s our pleasure to draw your attention to a lovely build, showing all the processes involved, the problems and the solutions found along the way.īuilding a small cube is somewhat of a trivial affair, especially without considering PWM colour mixing, however as simple maths will illustrate, as you increase the number of LEDs on each side, the total number will quickly get quite large. ![]() Whether for stills or video, the faster the shutter speed, the greater the chance of visible flicker.LED cubes are really nothing new, many of us consider the building of a good sized one almost an electronics rite of passage that not so many manage to find the time or have the skill to pull off. And when shooting stills, I saw subtle exposure changes from frame to frame caused by the flicker. It’s not visible to the naked eye, but it could require adjustments when shooting video. But inexpensive household or commercial ceiling lights like this do have flicker that can be an issue. The best ones-the expensive models designed for professional video production, for instance-minimize flicker. This fixture is 80+ CRI, compared to a 95+ CRI found on a high-end studio light. The higher the CRI, the more consistent the color temperature. ![]() It’s also a lower CRI light, which simply means it’s less color accurate. Feature-wise this includes bi-color capability for dialing in a precise color temperature. The other tradeoff with a light like this, as you might imagine, is that you’re losing some of the functionality of a high-end professional LED panel made explicitly for video. Instead, the safety cable will hold it in place. This way if the glue were to ever fail, the light won’t fall to the floor-or worse, on a subject. I don’t like having a system in place where failure would be catastrophic, so as a backup I affixed a steel safety cable to the back of the fixture and connected it to the plate. So what’s the catch with a light like this? The biggest worry is the connection between the fixture and the baby plate. Plug it in, turn it on… et voila, it works! Next, I mounted the light to a C-stand, and weighted the stand with a sandbag for stability. After 24 hours, I removed the weights and picked up the light by the baby plate’s stud. Then, I positioned the baby plate and clamped it in place, using heavy sandbags for the necessary pressure to create a strong bond. (Two-part epoxy would be another likely candidate for a heavy-duty bond.) Following the instructions provided for the glue, I lightly dampened one surface prior to applying a thin layer of glue to the other. I’ve had tremendous success with the product before, and so far so good with this fixture. I decided that if anything could securely hold these two pieces together it would be Gorilla Glue. Marking on the back of the fixture in pencil, I measured from each corner to determine the center.īefore affixing the plate, I removed a small portion of the thin plastic coating from the back of the fixture, then lightly roughed up the surface with sandpaper in order to provide better adhesion for the glue. To do this, I purchased an Avenger 6” baby plate for about $15. ![]()
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